White Gold
Also: White Gold, Or blanc
White gold is a gold alloy to which white metals such as palladium, nickel or silver are added to create the characteristic silvery-white colour.
White gold is not an independent type of metal but a gold alloy in which pure gold (fine gold 999) is fused with one or more white metals until the alloy takes on a silvery-white colour. The gold content determines the carat fineness and — in combination with the current gold price — the material value of the piece. White gold is today the most widely used material for engagement and wedding rings in Western Europe.
Composition and alloy systems
Two main systems are broadly distinguished:
| Alloy type | White metal(s) | Typical fineness | Rhodium plating needed? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Palladium white gold | Palladium (8–13 %), silver | 750 (18 ct) | No / optional |
| Nickel white gold | Nickel (8–14 %), copper, zinc | 585 (14 ct) or 750 | Yes (standard) |
| Palladium-nickel mix | Pd + Ni + Cu | 750 | Usually yes |
Palladium white gold (also "nickel-free") is considered the higher-quality variant: palladium gives the alloy a natural whiteness and is hypoallergenic. The disadvantage is the higher material price, since palladium belongs to the platinum group metals and is traded independently on the precious metals exchange.
Nickel white gold is cheaper to produce, but nickel can trigger contact allergies in sensitive individuals. The EU Nickel Directive (94/27/EC, today anchored in REACH Annex XVII) limits nickel release from jewellery to 0.5 µg/cm²/week. Nickel white gold jewellery is therefore routinely rhodium-plated today.
Rhodium plating
Since no white gold alloy naturally achieves the dazzling white brilliance of platinum or silver, most white gold jewellery is coated with a thin rhodium layer — a technique known as rhodium plating. Rhodium is the brightest and hardest of the platinum group metals and produces a mirror-smooth, scratch-resistant surface.
The rhodium layer is typically 0.05–0.5 µm. It wears off through daily use, which is why a refresh every 1–3 years at the jeweller is customary.
Fineness and hallmarking
750 white gold = 750 ‰ gold = 18 carat (75.0 % Au)
585 white gold = 585 ‰ gold = 14 carat (58.5 % Au)
375 white gold = 375 ‰ gold = 9 carat (37.5 % Au)
In the UK, gold jewellery must be hallmarked at an official Assay Office and carry its fineness mark (e.g. "750" or "18ct"). The actual gold content can be determined via the current gold price and the melt value calculator — a useful reference point when buying or selling scrap gold.
Distinction from similar materials
- Platinum: naturally white, denser (approx. 21.4 g/cm³), more expensive, no rhodium coating needed.
- Silver: silvery-white, but no gold content, considerably cheaper, tarnishes (tarnishing).
- Nickel silver: contains no silver, is a copper-nickel-zinc alloy — despite the misleading name.
- White gold is therefore always genuine gold jewellery with a defined gold content and corresponding material value.
Material value and purchase
When buying white gold jewellery, only the gold content is remunerated — the alloying metals (palladium, nickel, silver) usually play a subordinate role in the purchase price, since the quantities are small. The theoretical metal value can be determined quickly with the melt value calculator. The current material price for palladium alloys is shown by the palladium price.
Note: This entry serves as factual information and does not constitute tax or investment advice.
In brief
White gold is yellow gold with added white metals — usually palladium or nickel — and always carries a fineness hallmark (750, 585 etc.). The typical silvery-white high-gloss surface only arises in most alloys through an applied rhodium layer, which wears down over time and can be renewed.