Nickel White Gold
Also: Nickel-white gold, White gold (nickel)
Nickel white gold is a gold alloy in which nickel serves as the primary whitening metal to give yellow gold a silvery-white colour.
Nickel white gold is created when yellow gold is alloyed with nickel, zinc and partly copper or palladium. The nickel content, typically 8-14%, performs the main task of whitening: nickel is a strongly bleaching metal that effectively suppresses the yellow colour of gold. Even so, when freshly alloyed the surface still looks slightly yellowish or cream-coloured - which is why most nickel-white-gold jewellery is finally rhodium-plated, that is, coated with a thin layer of rhodium.
Composition and finenesses
The most common alloys are 585 gold (14 carat) and 750 gold (18 carat). In 585 nickel white gold the alloy consists of 58.5% pure gold, with the remainder split between nickel (approx. 10-14%), zinc (approx. 4-8%) and copper. The Melt Value Calculator always bases its result on the fine gold share - the nickel content has no precious-metal value.
| Fineness | Gold share | Typical additives |
|---|---|---|
| 333 (8 carat) | 33.3% | Ni, Zn, Cu |
| 585 (14 carat) | 58.5% | Ni, Zn, Cu |
| 750 (18 carat) | 75.0% | Ni, Zn, (Pd) |
Allergy issue and EU regulation
Nickel is one of the most common triggers of contact allergies. The EU nickel restriction (formerly Directive 94/27/EC, today anchored in the REACH Regulation) limits nickel release from articles in prolonged contact with the skin to 0.5 micrograms per square centimetre per week. Jewellery that exceeds this limit may not be marketed in the EU. Rhodium plating considerably reduces nickel release - but once the layer is worn away, direct skin contact with the underlying metal can occur.
As a low-allergy alternative, palladium white gold has become established, which manages without nickel and is generally preferred and recommended in the EU.
Processing and properties
Nickel increases the hardness and tensile strength of the alloy, which makes nickel white gold particularly suitable for delicate settings and pave jewellery. At the same time, the high nickel content lowers ductility - the material is more brittle than comparable palladium white gold alloys and requires experience during soldering and polishing.
The current gold price - the basis for the material-value calculation of any white-gold piece - is shown by the Gold Calculator in real time.
In brief
Nickel white gold is inexpensive, hard and widely used, but carries a real allergy potential. Anyone with sensitive skin or looking for jewellery to be worn permanently should prefer palladium white gold or rhodium-plated jewellery with regular refreshment.