White Gold
Also: white gold alloy, or blanc
White gold is a gold alloy to which white metals such as palladium, nickel or silver are added to produce its characteristic silvery-white colour.
White gold is not a metal in its own right but a gold alloy, in which pure gold (fine gold 999) is fused with one or more white metals until the mixture takes on a silvery-white colour. The gold content sets the karat fineness and — combined with the current gold price — the material value of the piece. White gold is today the most widely used material for engagement and wedding rings in Western Europe.
Composition and alloy systems
Two main systems are distinguished:
| Alloy type | White metal(s) | Typical fineness | Rhodium plating needed? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Palladium white gold | Palladium (8–13%), silver | 750 (18 kt) | No / optional |
| Nickel white gold | Nickel (8–14%), copper, zinc | 585 (14 kt) or 750 | Yes (standard) |
| Palladium-nickel mix | Pd + Ni + Cu | 750 | Usually yes |
Palladium white gold (also "nickel-free") is regarded as the higher-quality option: palladium gives the alloy a natural whiteness and is hypoallergenic. The drawback is the higher material cost, since palladium belongs to the platinum group metals and is traded independently on the precious-metal exchange.
Nickel white gold is cheaper to produce, but nickel can trigger contact allergies in sensitive individuals. The EU nickel directive (94/27/EC, now anchored in REACH Annex XVII) caps nickel release from jewellery at 0.5 µg/cm²/week. For that reason nickel white-gold pieces are routinely rhodium-plated today.
Rhodium plating
Since no white-gold alloy achieves the dazzling white brilliance of platinum or silver on its own, most white-gold jewellery is coated with a thin layer of rhodium — a technique known as rhodium plating. Rhodium is the brightest and hardest of the platinum-group metals and produces a mirror-smooth, scratch-resistant surface.
The rhodium layer is typically 0.05–0.5 µm. It wears away with daily use, which is why a refresh every 1–3 years at the jeweller is customary.
Fineness and hallmarking
750 white gold = 750 ‰ gold = 18 karat (75.0% Au)
585 white gold = 585 ‰ gold = 14 karat (58.5% Au)
375 white gold = 375 ‰ gold = 9 karat (37.5% Au)
In Ireland and across the EU, gold jewellery must carry the fineness as a hallmark (for example "750" or "18K"). The actual gold content can be worked out from the current gold price and the melt-value calculator — a useful reference point when buying or selling scrap gold.
Distinguishing it from similar materials
- Platinum: naturally white, denser (approx. 21.4 g/cm³), more expensive, no rhodium coating needed.
- Silver: silvery-white but with no gold content, much cheaper, and prone to tarnishing.
- Nickel silver: contains no silver at all — a copper-nickel-zinc alloy, despite the misleading name.
- White gold is therefore always genuine gold jewellery with a defined gold content and a corresponding material value.
Material value and resale
When buying white-gold jewellery, only the gold content is paid for — the alloying metals (palladium, nickel, silver) usually play a minor role in the purchase price, because the quantities are small. The melt-value calculator gives a quick estimate of the theoretical metal value. The current material price for palladium alloys is shown by the palladium price.
Note: this entry is for factual information and is not tax or investment advice.
In brief
White gold is yellow gold with white metals added — usually palladium or nickel — and always carries a fineness hallmark (750, 585 and so on). For most alloys the typical silvery-white high-gloss surface only comes from an applied rhodium layer, which wears over time and can be renewed.