White Gold
Also: Or blanc
White gold is a gold alloy to which white metals such as palladium, nickel or silver are added to create the characteristic silvery-white colour.
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White gold is not an independent type of metal, but a gold alloy in which pure gold (fine gold 999) is melted together with one or more white metals until the alloy takes on a silvery-white colour. The gold content determines the karat fineness and – in combination with the current gold price – the material value of the piece. White gold is today the most widely used material for engagement and wedding rings in Western Europe.
Composition and Alloy Systems
There are two main systems:
| Alloy type | White metal(s) | Typical fineness | Rhodium plating needed? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Palladium white gold | Palladium (8–13 %), silver | 750 (18 kt) | No / optional |
| Nickel white gold | Nickel (8–14 %), copper, zinc | 585 (14 kt) or 750 | Yes (standard) |
| Palladium-nickel mix | Pd + Ni + Cu | 750 | Usually yes |
Palladium white gold (also "nickel-free") is considered the higher-quality variant: palladium gives the alloy a natural whiteness and is hypoallergenic. The downside is the higher material cost, as palladium belongs to the platinum-group metals and is traded independently on the precious metals exchange.
Nickel white gold is cheaper to produce, but nickel can cause contact allergies in sensitive individuals. The EU Nickel Directive (94/27/EC, now anchored in REACH Annex XVII) limits nickel release in jewellery to 0.5 µg/cm²/week. For this reason, nickel white gold jewellery is today routinely rhodium-plated.
Rhodium Plating
Since no white gold alloy naturally achieves the dazzling white brilliance of platinum or silver, most white gold jewellery pieces are coated with a thin layer of rhodium – a technique known as rhodium plating. Rhodium is the brightest and hardest of the platinum-group metals and produces a mirror-smooth, scratch-resistant surface.
The rhodium layer is typically 0.05–0.5 µm thick. It wears down with daily use, so a refresh at the jeweller's every 1–3 years is common.
Fineness and Hallmarking
750 white gold = 750 ‰ gold = 18 karat (75.0 % Au)
585 white gold = 585 ‰ gold = 14 karat (58.5 % Au)
375 white gold = 375 ‰ gold = 9 karat (37.5 % Au)
In Germany and the EU, gold jewellery must bear the fineness as a hallmark (e.g. "750" or "18K"). The actual gold content can be determined using the current gold price and the melt value calculator – a useful reference point when buying or selling scrap gold.
Distinction from Similar Materials
- Platinum: naturally white, denser (approx. 21.4 g/cm³), more expensive, no rhodium coating required.
- Silver: silver-white, but no gold content, significantly cheaper, tarnishes (tarnishing).
- Nickel silver: contains no silver; it is a copper-nickel-zinc alloy – despite the misleading name.
- White gold is therefore always genuine gold jewellery with a defined gold content and corresponding material value.
Material Value and Purchasing
When purchasing white gold jewellery, only the gold content is compensated – the alloying metals (palladium, nickel, silver) usually play a minor role in the buying price as the quantities are small. The melt value calculator can be used to quickly determine the theoretical metal value. The current material price for palladium alloys is shown by the palladium price.
Note: This entry is for informational purposes only and does not constitute tax or investment advice.
In Brief
White gold is yellow gold with added white metals – usually palladium or nickel – and always bears a fineness hallmark (750, 585, etc.). The typical silvery-white high-gloss surface is produced in most alloys only by an applied rhodium layer, which wears down over time and can be renewed.