Nickel White Gold
Also: Nickel White Gold, Nickel-White Gold
Nickel white gold is a gold alloy in which nickel serves as the primary bleaching metal to give yellow gold a silvery-white colour.
Nickel white gold is created when yellow gold is alloyed with nickel, zinc, and sometimes copper or palladium. The nickel content of typically 8–14 % performs the primary bleaching function: nickel is a strongly decolorising metal that effectively suppresses the yellow tint of gold. Nevertheless, the surface appears slightly yellowish or cream-coloured when freshly alloyed – which is why most nickel white gold jewellery is finished with rhodium plating, i.e. coated with a thin layer of rhodium.
Composition and Finenesses
The most common alloys are 585 gold (14 karat) and 750 gold (18 karat). With 585 nickel white gold, the alloy consists of 58.5 % pure gold; the remainder is divided between nickel (approx. 10–14 %), zinc (approx. 4–8 %), and copper. The melt value calculator always uses the fine gold content as the basis – the nickel share has no precious metal value.
| Fineness | Gold Share | Typical Additions |
|---|---|---|
| 333 (8 karat) | 33.3 % | Ni, Zn, Cu |
| 585 (14 karat) | 58.5 % | Ni, Zn, Cu |
| 750 (18 karat) | 75.0 % | Ni, Zn, (Pd) |
Allergy Risk and EU Regulation
Nickel is one of the most common causes of contact allergies. The EU Nickel Directive (94/27/EC, now incorporated into the REACH Regulation) limits the release of nickel from items that come into prolonged skin contact to 0.5 micrograms per square centimetre per week. Jewellery exceeding this limit may not be marketed in the EU. Rhodium plating significantly reduces nickel release – however, once the coating wears off, direct skin contact with the base metal can occur.
Palladium white gold has established itself as a low-allergy alternative, being nickel-free and generally preferred in the EU.
Processing and Properties
Nickel increases the hardness and tensile strength of the alloy, making nickel white gold particularly suitable for delicate settings and pavé jewellery. At the same time, the high nickel content reduces ductility – the material is more brittle than comparable palladium white gold alloys and requires experience when soldering and polishing.
The current gold price – the basis for calculating the material value of any white gold piece – is shown in real time by the gold calculator.
In Brief
Nickel white gold is cost-effective, hard, and widely used, but carries a real allergy risk. Those with sensitive skin or who are looking for jewellery for permanent wear should prefer palladium white gold or rhodium-plated jewellery with regular re-coating.