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Purity & Alloys

585 Gold (14 Carat)

Also: 14 Carat, 14k, 585, 14ct, 14K Gold

585 gold is a gold alloy with a fineness of 585 parts per thousand (58.5%), corresponding internationally to the 14-carat standard and widely used in jewellery.

585 gold – also known as 14-carat gold – is one of the most widely used gold alloys in jewellery worldwide. The stamp "585" means that of 1,000 parts by weight, exactly 585 parts are pure gold. The remaining 415 parts consist of alloying metals such as silver, copper, zinc or palladium, which deliberately influence the colour, hardness and workability of the metal. You can determine the current value of your 585 pieces directly with the melt value calculator.

Origin and Meaning of the Carat Stamp

The carat system divides the purity of gold into 24 equal parts. 14 carats therefore means: 14 of 24 parts are fine gold.

Fineness = carat / 24 × 1000
14 / 24 × 1000 = 583.33‰ ≈ 585‰

The rounded trade value "585" is the official hallmark in practice, since an exact 583 alloy is barely producible – in fact the alloy contains at least 585 parts of gold, often marginally more. In the USA only the carat figure "14K" is used, while in the UK and continental Europe the parts-per-thousand stamp "585" is common. Both designations are legally equivalent.

Composition and Colours

Depending on the ratio of the alloying metals, a different colour results:

Colour Gold Silver Copper Other
Yellow gold (classic) 58.5% ~25% ~15% ≤1.5% Zn
Rose / red gold 58.5% ~8.5% ~33%
White gold (Pd) 58.5% ~24% ~3% ~14.5% Pd
White gold (Ni) 58.5% ~10% ~20% ~11.5% Ni + Zn
Green gold 58.5% ~35% ~6.5%

Nickel-bearing white gold can cause contact allergies in sensitive people; in the UK and EU the permissible nickel release from jewellery with prolonged skin contact is limited by the REACH Regulation (Annex XVII, entry 27), tested to standard EN 1811. Palladium white gold is the more skin-friendly alternative.

Why 585 Gold for Jewellery?

Compared with pure fine gold (999.9‰), 585 gold offers clear practical advantages:

  • Hardness: fine gold (Mohs hardness ~2.5) is too soft for everyday jewellery. Depending on the alloy, 585 gold reaches a Vickers hardness of 120–170 HV – resistant to scratches.
  • Workability: better casting and soldering properties for fine settings and delicate structures.
  • Economy: with a fine gold content of 58.5%, the material value is considerably cheaper than 750 gold (18 carat), appealing to a broader range of buyers.
  • Colour variety: through targeted alloying, yellow, red, rose, green and white gold variants arise from the same base purity.

Compared with 333 gold (8 carat, 33.3% gold) and 375 gold (9 carat), 585 gold offers a considerably higher precious-metal content, which is also valued more highly on purchase and resale.

Calculating the Melt Value

The material value of a 585 piece follows from the current gold price and the fine weight:

Melt value = weight (g) × 0.585 × gold price (£/g)

Example: A 585 gold ring weighing 5 g at a gold price of £75/g:

5 g × 0.585 × £75/g = £219.38

This is the pure material value without processing surcharge, dealer margin or collector premium. Use the melt value calculator for daily calculations or the gold calculator for various weight units.

Marking Requirement and Hallmarking

In the UK, jewellery and watch cases made of 585 gold must be hallmarked. Permissible stamps:

  • 585 (parts-per-thousand stamp, metric standard)
  • 14K or 14kt (US/GB spelling)
  • 14C or 14ct (older British spelling)
  • Sponsor's / responsibility mark

The Vienna Hallmarking Convention of 1972 facilitates mutual recognition of hallmarks among the member states (including the UK, Austria, Switzerland, Sweden, Finland and others). Pieces from non-member countries may additionally bear national import hallmarks.

Dental gold alloys on a 585 basis (e.g. older dental bridges and crowns) fall into the same purity category and can likewise be valued using the dental gold calculator.

585 Gold in Comparison

Alloy Carat Fineness Typical use
333 gold 8 carats 33.3% Entry segment (below UK minimum)
375 gold 9 carats 37.5% UK, Australia, entry-level jewellery
585 gold 14 carats 58.5% Jewellery, dental, USA/UK/E. Europe
750 gold 18 carats 75.0% High-quality jewellery, CH/IT/FR
916 gold 22 carats 91.6% Coins, Indian gold jewellery
999 gold 24 carats 99.9% Bars, investment coins

In North America and Eastern Europe, 14 carat is the dominant jewellery alloy; in Western Europe and Switzerland, 750 gold (18 carat) is more often regarded as the quality standard. For pure investment products (bars, bullion coins), only fine gold (999/999.9) is customary.

Tax Notes

Under UK law, the purchase of 585 gold jewellery is subject to VAT at the standard rate of 20%, since jewellery is not VAT-exempt investment gold. The VAT exemption applies only to investment gold – that is, gold bars of at least 995 fineness and certain investment coins of at least 900 fineness minted after 1800 that were or are legal tender (HMRC; Directive 2006/112/EC).

For private sellers: gains from selling 585 gold may be subject to Capital Gains Tax. The gain is calculated as disposal proceeds minus acquisition cost and is taxable above the annual exempt amount; there is no German-style one-year holding period. UK legal-tender coins from The Royal Mint are CGT-exempt, but jewellery is not. Note: This is not tax or investment advice; for binding information, consult a tax adviser.

In Brief

585 gold combines an economically attractive gold content of 58.5% with high everyday suitability and colour variety – it is the world's best-selling jewellery alloy and at the same time a solid material value that you can check at any time with the melt value calculator.

Back to the glossary Last updated: 25. липень 2026

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