585 Gold (14 Karat)
Also: 14 Karat, 14k, 585, 14ct, 14K Gold
585 Gold is a gold alloy with a fineness of 585 parts per thousand (58.5%), internationally equivalent to the 14-karat standard, and is widely used especially in the jewellery sector.
585 Gold — also known as 14-karat gold — is one of the most widely used gold alloys in the jewellery sector worldwide. The stamp "585" means that exactly 585 parts per 1,000 parts by weight are pure gold. The remaining 415 parts consist of alloying metals such as silver, copper, zinc or palladium, which deliberately influence the colour, hardness and workability of the metal. You can determine the current value of your 585 pieces directly in the melt value calculator.
Origin and Meaning of the Karat Stamp
The karat system divides the purity of gold into 24 equal parts. 14 karat therefore means: 14 out of 24 parts are fine gold.
Fineness = Karat / 24 × 1000
14 / 24 × 1000 = 583.33 ‰ ≈ 585 ‰
The rounded commercial value "585" is the official hallmark in practice, since an exact 583 alloy is almost impossible to produce — the alloy actually contains at least 585 parts per thousand of gold, often marginally more. In the USA only the karat designation "14K" is used, while in Germany and the EU the per-mille stamp "585" is common. Both designations are legally equivalent.
Composition and Colours
Different colour finishes arise depending on the ratio of alloying metals:
| Colour | Gold | Silver | Copper | Other |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yellow Gold (classic) | 58.5% | ~25% | ~15% | ≤1.5% Zn |
| Rosé Gold / Red Gold | 58.5% | ~8.5% | ~33% | – |
| White Gold (Pd) | 58.5% | ~24% | ~3% | ~14.5% Pd |
| White Gold (Ni) | 58.5% | ~10% | ~20% | ~11.5% Ni + Zn |
| Green Gold | 58.5% | ~35% | ~6.5% | – |
Nickel-containing white gold can cause contact allergies in sensitive individuals; in the EU the permissible nickel release from jewellery items with prolonged skin contact is limited by the REACH Regulation (Annex XVII, Entry 27), tested according to EN 1811. Palladium white gold is the more skin-compatible alternative.
Why 585 Gold for Jewellery?
Compared with pure fine gold (999.9 ‰), 585 Gold offers clear practical advantages:
- Hardness: Fine gold (Mohs hardness ~2.5) is too soft for everyday jewellery use. 585 Gold achieves, depending on the alloy, a Vickers hardness of 120–170 HV — resistant to scratching.
- Workability: Better casting and soldering properties for fine settings and filigree structures.
- Economy: With a fine-gold content of 58.5%, the material value is significantly lower than 750 Gold (18 karat), which appeals to a broader range of buyers.
- Colour variety: Targeted alloying produces yellow, red, rosé, green and white gold variants from the same base purity.
Compared with 333 Gold (8 karat, 33.3% gold) and 375 Gold (9 karat), 585 Gold offers a significantly higher precious-metal content, which is also better valued on purchase and resale.
Calculating the Melt Value
The material value of a 585 piece is derived from the current gold price and the fine weight:
Melt Value = Weight (g) × 0.585 × Gold Price (€/g)
Example: A 585 gold ring weighing 5 g at a gold price of €85/g:
5 g × 0.585 × 85 €/g = €248.63
This is the pure material value without processing surcharge, dealer margin or collector premium. Use the melt value calculator for up-to-date calculations or the gold calculator for different units of weight.
Hallmarking Requirements
In Germany and the EU, jewellery and watch cases made of 585 Gold are subject to a hallmarking requirement. Permitted stamps:
- 585 (per-mille stamp, EU standard)
- 14K or 14kt (US/UK notation)
- 14C or 14ct (older British notation)
- Manufacturer's mark or responsibility mark
The Vienna Hallmarking Convention of 1972 facilitates mutual recognition of hallmarks among member states (including Austria, Switzerland, Sweden, Finland, and others). Pieces from non-member countries may additionally bear national import hallmarks.
Dental gold alloys based on 585 (e.g. older dental bridges and crowns) fall under the same purity category and can also be valued using the dental gold calculator.
585 Gold in Comparison
| Alloy | Karat | Fineness | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 333 Gold | 8 Karat | 33.3% | Entry segment, rarely UK/Ireland |
| 375 Gold | 9 Karat | 37.5% | UK, Australia, entry-level jewellery |
| 585 Gold | 14 Karat | 58.5% | Jewellery, dental, USA/DE/Eastern Europe |
| 750 Gold | 18 Karat | 75.0% | High-quality jewellery, CH/IT/FR |
| 916 Gold | 22 Karat | 91.6% | Coins, Indian gold jewellery |
| 999 Gold | 24 Karat | 99.9% | Bars, bullion coins |
In North America and Eastern Europe, 14 karat is the dominant jewellery alloy; in Western Europe and Switzerland, 750 Gold (18 karat) is more often regarded as the quality standard. For pure investment products (bars, bullion coins), exclusively fine gold (999/999.9) is standard in the market.
Tax Notes
The purchase of 585 gold jewellery in Germany is subject to VAT (19%), since jewellery is not tax-exempt investment gold within the meaning of § 25c UStG. The VAT exemption applies only to investment gold — that is, gold bars with a fineness of at least 995 ‰ and certain investment coins with a fineness of at least 900 ‰ that were minted after 1800 and were or are legal tender.
For private sellers, gains from the sale of 585 gold may fall under the speculative holding period (§ 23 EStG) if less than one year has elapsed between purchase and sale. After expiry of the one-year period, disposal gains are generally tax-free, provided the tax-free allowance is not exceeded. Note: This is not tax or investment advice; for binding information please consult a tax adviser.
In Brief
585 Gold combines an economically attractive gold content of 58.5% with high everyday suitability and colour variety — it is the world's best-selling jewellery alloy and at the same time a solid material value that you can check at any time with the melt value calculator.