Nickel White Gold
Also: Nickel-bearing white gold, Ni white gold
Nickel white gold is a gold alloy in which nickel is used as the primary bleaching metal to give yellow gold a silvery-white colour.
Nickel white gold is created when yellow gold is alloyed with nickel, zinc and sometimes copper or palladium. The nickel content of typically 8–14 % takes on the main task of bleaching: nickel is a strongly bleaching metal that effectively suppresses the yellow colour of gold. Even so, the freshly alloyed surface appears slightly yellowish or cream-coloured — which is why most pieces of nickel white gold jewellery are finally rhodium-plated, that is, coated with a thin layer of rhodium.
Composition and finenesses
The most common alloys are 585 gold (14 carat) and 750 gold (18 carat). In 585 nickel white gold the alloy consists of 58.5 % pure gold, with the remainder distributed among nickel (approx. 10–14 %), zinc (approx. 4–8 %) and copper. The Melt Value Calculator always bases its result on the fine gold content — the nickel content has no precious metal value.
| Fineness | Gold content | Typical additives |
|---|---|---|
| 333 (8 carat) | 33.3 % | Ni, Zn, Cu |
| 585 (14 carat) | 58.5 % | Ni, Zn, Cu |
| 750 (18 carat) | 75.0 % | Ni, Zn, (Pd) |
Allergy problem and EU regulation
Nickel is one of the most common triggers of contact allergies. The EU Nickel Directive (94/27/EC, today anchored in the REACH Regulation) limits nickel release from objects that come into prolonged contact with the skin to 0.5 micrograms per square centimetre per week. Jewellery that exceeds this limit may not be marketed in the EU. Rhodium plating considerably reduces nickel release — but once the layer is worn away, direct skin contact with the underlying metal can occur.
As a low-allergy alternative, palladium white gold, which does without nickel, has established itself and is generally recommended in the EU.
Processing and properties
Nickel increases the hardness and tensile strength of the alloy, which makes nickel white gold particularly suitable for delicate settings and pavé jewellery. At the same time, the high nickel content lowers ductility — the material is more brittle than comparable palladium white gold alloys and requires experience when soldering and polishing.
The current gold price — the basis for calculating the material value of any white gold item — is shown by the Gold Calculator in real time.
In brief
Nickel white gold is inexpensive, hard and widely used, but carries a real allergy potential. Anyone with sensitive skin or seeking jewellery for permanent wear should prefer palladium white gold or rhodium-plated jewellery with regular refreshing.